Retinol peelings (yellow peel) belongs to skin treatments with a short recovery period. Retinoids (synthesized equivalents of vitamin A) regulate the processes of differentiation, proliferation, and intercellular communication. When retinoids get into a cell, they make a bond with nuclear sensors. Thus, sections of the cell genome are activated or decelerated.
Since the main effect of retinoids on cells is produced through nuclear sensors (through nuclear receptors and specific molecular activation mechanisms), they can be included in the same category as thyroid and steroid hormones. The main advantages of this treatment are minimal skin damage, a brief recovery period and a low probability of complications.
Indications for retinol peels:
- Lack of collagen production
- Disruption of skin’s natural moisture balance
- Mimic wrinkles
- Loss of skin elasticity and strength
- Skin whitening
- Excessive pigmentation caused by solar radiation
- Skin aging and photoaging
Retinoic acid peel can also effectively cleanse the skin, has anti-inflammatory effects, makes skin glow, improves skin texture and structure, and provides a lifting effect.
Contraindications for retinol peels:
- Various allergies – indicate the probability of severe skin reaction to the treatment, also increased with the use of retinol that makes skin more reactive
- Atopic skin, eczema, seborrheic dermatitis etc. – indicate skin hypersensitivity (reactivity)
- Viral infections – under the influence of retinoids and acids, can cause herpes lesions in patients with a history of herpes
- Warts – can cause further viral shedding from a wart
- Photosensitivity – high skin sensitivity to solar or other types of UV radiation
- Compatibility with pharmaceutical products – those who have taken roaccutane should wait at least half a year before getting a retinoic acid peel
- Liver diseases, including previous hepatitis infections
- Pregnancy or pregnancy planning within a year, as well as lactation, for retinoids are embryotoxic.
Properties of retinol peel:
Retinol is capable of making bonds with nuclear receptors and initiating a cellular response with their help. It is worth mentioning that almost all cells in a body are sensitive to retinoids.
The peels should be applied once or twice with 15 days gab every 6 months maximum. The result is active exfoliation, which leads to epidermis renewal at the cellular level. The quality of the extracellular matrix of the dermis is also considerably improved.
The effect of retinoids on skin during the peel procedure does not lead to skin damage, destruction of living cells, and protein coagulation. Interactions between retinoids and other chemical structures are based on the use of nuclear receptors of cells. Basal keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and melanocytes have such receptors.
The results of a retinol peels, as it affects the epidermis, are the following:
- an increase of mitotic activity of basal keratinocytes
- a normalization of keratinization, differentiation, and melanogenesis
- an activation and stimulation of epidermal lipid synthesis, as well as the components of the extracellular matrix of the dermis
- a decrease in atypical cells
The peel helps to slow down the skin’s ageing process, improves skin texture and remodels its contour, and achieves a pronounced rejuvenating and whitening effect. There is also a strong antioxidant effect.
Histological studies have shown that the effect of a retinoic acid peel lasts for 4 to 6 months.
Retinol peel procedure
The peel is uniformly applied to skin, excluding lower and upper eyelids (along the lash line). The areas of lashes and eyebrows should be avoided.
The peels sets 10 to 15 minutes. Then skin is treated with a repair cream.
The main benefit of the mask is that it forms an occlusive film on skin and stimulates uniform tretinoin production. The standard retinol peel includes 2 procedures. The interval between the first and the second one is 2 weeks, between. In the future, this kind of peel can be performed for prophylactic purposes as a supportive treatment at intervals of 6 months.
When a retinol peel treatment is over, a recovery period begins which requires a special skin care regimen. The use of cosmetic products containing retinol and AHA is prohibited within two weeks after the end of the treatment. Other cosmetic procedures and procedures that use chemicals, like hair dyeing or hair perms, are not recommended.
Any swelling, irritations, and painfulness that might appear should be treated with anti-inflammatory and regenerating agents.